Wiring Diagram 2006 Ford Escape Master Driver Door Switch
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there! New here, but long time reader. Learned lots so far, looking forward to contributing as well!
I saw a few rear door lock threads but I couldn't find any help with my specific issue, so I thought I'd ask the collective genius here.
I have a 2006 E350 Super Duty XLT with a fiberglass high roof. The side hinged doors have power locks but no switch. The rear doors have a power lock switch that I want to delete / bypass. I am converting the van to a camper so I want to remove it.
Unfortunately, the switch itself is already gone (my mistake). But the wiring is still intact. Is there a trick way to rewire those 5 wires (black, pk/bk, rd, bn, pk/ye) to bypass this switch and still have the power rear locks work?
There is not a RKE that I'm aware of (but how would I check to know for sure?)
Thanks in advance for any help. Let me know if I can provide any other info that might help.
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Welcome to the Forum
Have you tried a conversion van shop
I myself don't know how to do that operation
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Do the door locks work now from the other locations that have switches?
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They did before I pulled (and tossed) the rear door switch. Now the front door switches don't do anything.
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I found a diagram. This is for F series
Looks like there are 2 wires for illumination in the switch and the other 3 are for the actual switching.
One would be ground (ground side switched) and the other 2 are power from door lock actuator for unlock and lock
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for finding that, but it appears to be wired like this diagram. The switches on my van match this diagram almost exactly. And now I'm missing the actual switch at the "Rear Power Door Lock Switch" position. I think everything else is wired / still connected properly, though I wouldn't be surprised if it was a loose ground or something somewhere. Can you think of a way to bypass that switch? Thanks for the help so far!
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Based on that diagram at the rear switch
The PK/YE wire passes through to RD wire - connect those
The PK/LG wire passes through to BN wire - connect those
Tape off BK/WH wire so it never touches anything or you will have issues
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Ah. I was worried you'd say that. I wired them up that way and the result is:
Everything locks correctly.
Nothing unlocks. But I can hear the rear door lock try to unlock (a quiet whirring but no action). None of the other doors make any attempt at unlocking...
Then I got the bright idea to test the "hot wire" technique. So I tapped the stripped end of the BK/WH wire to each of the connections that are jumped together. When I tapped it on the RD + PK/YE connection, it locked everything (expected). When I tapped it on the BN + PK/LG connection, it blew the 20A fuse in the central junction box (unexpected). That's when I decided to ask for help.
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Do you have the EVTM that page came from or did you just find this on the web? (Pages 110 2, 3 & 4
Do you have the shop manual?
Based on the diagram you posted, to lock the system it gets momentary battery voltage applied. To unlock the system it gets a momentary ground applied. The boxes state that. Both ground and power are present at each switch.
Wouldn't it be easier to buy a replacement switch, assuming the system worked before you removed the switch?
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It would definitely be easier. I purchased one, we'll see when it shows up. I was just hoping to patch it together and move on.
Thanks for the input so far. Found this diagram on another thread about E350 locks. I don't have the EVTM or any manuals. Just winging it with what I see under the panels and what I find on these forums. 
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Posted by: dressdrea.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/2006-e350-help-bypass-delete-power-door-lock-switch.46815/